This week, commemoration week, genocide is constant.
Strange twinkly songs spill from the radio, the only of word I understand is 'genocide', televisions flash image after image
after image of the dead. Kigali turns to a city of the dead. The
whole town shuts down during genocide memorials, by mandate, and so I
when go out to buy a mango or an avocado I often wander past locked
doors and darkened windows for miles.
Sunday I went to the main memorial: a
long 'walk to remember' to the national stadium for an evening of
songs and speeches and thousands of candles, flames spread from the
memorial bonfire. In Rwandan culture when someon
e dies you keep a
fire going for seven days and seven nights and stay by it,
remembering the dead. This week fires burn all across the country,
and we are all around them.
Candles at the stadium. You can see the lights better out of focus.
Memory comes with a price. As we left
the stadium on Sunday there was a scream in the dark: a howl of grief
so brutal I cannot even comprehend the physical pain that must have
been at the center of it. Three volunteers ran past us, carrying a
writhing, screaming woman. She wailed and beat against them, lost in
the torture of memory, while they repeated 'Ntakebazo' – it's ok –
over and over again.
This is not uncommon during
commemoration week. As we walked I heard screams again, and again,
agony so physical it seemed to cut the dark and twisted my guts, made
my skin prickle and shudder. Before Rwanda I thought there was a
limit to pain. I believed because I cannot imagine grief beyond a
certain point that the human spirit must not be able to take it, that
we must simply break from the weight of it. Now I know better. We are
made to endure, and this is our blessing and our curse. This is the
price of memory. The dead never die. The screams in the night do not
cease. Genocide in Rwanda is never entirely over. This week it goes
on behind the eyes of every face I see.
I write this from another memorial. I
am here with AVEGA, sitting quietly with my psychologist mentors to
be there when and if the screams begin again. It is past midnight,
raining and cold, and the faces around me are heavy with grief and
exhaustion. I am on blood-stained ground: at the beginning of the
genocide many Rwandans and foreigners fled to this school to escape
from the Interhamwe. The UN came to the rescue: but only for the
whites. They took the few foreigners out of the screaming begging
crowd, and drove away. As the UN cars disappeared down the road the
genocidaires moved in. Guilt seeps into my stomach -- I am nauseous
with disgust. As a student turned researcher I feel out of place, a
voyeuristic observer of pain too sharp for me to ever touch. In the
cold air, orange from smoke and streetlights, I begin to imagine
myself not an outsider peering into someone else's pain, but a
mourner, keeping vigil for the dead.
Tonight we keep them close.
